Temples and Sea Roads: Riding South Korea by e-MTB

Seoraksan is a range of granite peaks and ridges around its highest summit, Daecheongbong (about 1,708 m), and is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The 'ridge line' in the route's name refers to ridges such as Gongnyong and Seobuk, but those are national park hiking trails and closed to bikes. Instead you ride the two paved roads that cross the range, Misiryeong and Hangyeryeong, and see the ridges from the side.

The loop starts in Sokcho, climbs over Misiryeong (about 800 m) and drops toward Inje, then climbs Hangyeryeong and descends to Yangyang before following the coast back to Sokcho. The Taebaek range is steep on the east side and gentle on the west, so Misiryeong from the sea is short and steep, while Hangyeryeong from Inje is long and steady. Together the two passes add up to roughly 1,500–2,000 m of climbing.

That is a lot for one day, so most riders stay a night in Inje or at Osaek in Yangyang. In the autumn colour season (around mid-October) the slopes on both sides of the road turn red, but traffic is heaviest then too, so cross the passes early in the morning.

Jeju is a volcanic island built up around Hallasan. A bike route of about 234 km follows the coast all the way round, with stamp stations along the way that many riders collect. It is almost all paved with little climbing, so even first-time e-MTB riders can take it one day at a time.

The coastal rock is dark basalt from the volcano. White waves break on black rock, and low walls of stacked stones surround fields and houses. Wind turbines stand in a row in the sea off the west coast, and further south come Sanbangsan and sea cliffs.

On Jeju the wind decides the day. A headwind makes flat road feel like a climb and drains the battery fast. Check the wind direction and choose which way to ride round, or plan long stretches with the wind behind you.

Hallasan (about 1,947 m) is the highest mountain in South Korea and rises in the middle of the island. Its summit trails are closed to bikes, but two roads cross its slopes between Jeju City and Seogwipo: the 1100 Road in the west and the 5·16 Road in the east.

As the name says, the 1100 Road climbs to about 1,100 m, and from Jeju City to the top the climb barely lets up. Tangerine orchards and pastures give way to cedar and broadleaf forest, and near the top you see the peaks of Hallasan above low shrubs and dwarf bamboo. The 5·16 Road is known for its tunnel of trees and passes Seongpanak (about 750 m), a trailhead for Hallasan.

With enough energy and battery, you can cross on the 1100 Road, have lunch in Seogwipo and return on the 5·16 Road. On a first visit, riding from Jeju City up to the 1100 Highland and back down the same way works well too.

The east of the island combines Seongsan Ilchulbong, rising straight out of the sea, with oreum: small volcanic cones scattered across the fields. Seongsan Ilchulbong is part of the UNESCO World Natural Heritage site 'Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes', together with Hallasan and the Geomunoreum lava tube system.

The coast road north from Seongsan through Jongdal-ri, Sehwa and Woljeong-ri to Gimnyeong has clear water and little climbing, so it is easy riding. In the seaside villages you may see haenyeo, women divers, coming back from the sea. Jeju's haenyeo culture is on UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

A ferry from Seongsan port takes you to Udo. The island is about 17 km around, so even at a slow pace you can ride a full lap in half a day and see both white and black sand beaches.

Yeongjong is the island where Incheon International Airport stands. It is a good ride for the day you arrive or the day before you fly out, to get used to the bike without going far. Most of the way round is flat, so you can enjoy the sea breeze without worrying about climbs.

The Yellow Sea has a large tidal range, and wide mudflats appear at low tide. Eurwangni, Wangsan and Masian beaches on the west side face the sunset, so arrive late in the afternoon to watch the sun go down over the sea.

Parks and bike paths line the east coast, with views across the water to the Incheon Bridge and the towers of Songdo. On the roads near the airport, planes fly in low right over your head.